Surfing offers a handy way to talk about life, love, and all those other L words. There are times when surfing, and lest you be in any doubt the surfing to which I refer is with the body not that artificial gig that is done on a large piece of fibreglass, that you find yourself in turbulent water and, thus far, you always get out of it. But at times it can be somewhat scary as in those times when you become so disoriented you don't know where the surface is. There are times when there is a lull and you wait for the next set in which that perfect ride might just appear and there are times, mythic times when the waves run all day, and the only thing that stops you is pure physical exhaustion. Life, like surfing is a lot like that.
1 Comments:
sounds like love to me.
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